A good pair of jeans is the silent workhorse of any wardrobe. It accompanies you on your commute, joins you for weekend strolls, and occasionally steps up to save the day in semi-casual settings. Choose wisely, and it becomes the most versatile item you own; choose poorly, and you’ll be the guy covering his eyes in embarrassment when looking back at photos ten years from now.
Before shelling out £400 for a pair of Japanese selvedge denim, consider this: quality denim doesn’t necessarily require a hefty price tag. There are plenty of options available on the high street and online—the key is knowing where to look.
I. Before You Buy: Two Golden Rules
1. Fit
You can get away with “making do” with other clothes, but not with jeans. A straight-leg cut is the safest bet, though slim or relaxed fits can also work depending on your body frame. Steer clear of extreme cuts—unless you intend for your photos to serve as a cautionary tale for future generations.
The waistband should sit snugly against your waist, your legs should have full freedom of movement, and the fabric should drape evenly from thigh to calf. Avoid excessive bunching of fabric over your shoes at the hem; if they’re too long, simply cuff them or have them hemmed. When trying on raw denim for the first time, the waist and hips should feel almost uncomfortably tight—rest assured, they will stretch out over time.
If you love the style but the fit isn’t quite perfect, take them to a tailor. It’s money well spent.
2. Quality
You can tell if a pair of jeans is worth the price the moment you get your hands on them. Avoid anything with excessive stretch; the fabric is often suspiciously thin. 100% cotton is ideal; if you absolutely crave a bit of stretch, limit yourself to a blend containing no more than 5% elastane.
Check that the seams—both front and back—are clean and precise; sturdy rivets are a sign of durability. As for the fly: buttons or a zipper? Buttons tend to last longer, while zippers offer quicker access when nature calls—choose whichever suits your needs best.
Ultimately, jeans are bound to wear out eventually, so the smart move is to buy a pair you won’t feel too precious about—one you can truly live in without worry.
II. Six Brands Worth Your Money
ASKET
A wardrobe without a pair of raw denim jeans is like a kitchen without a good knife. The Swedish brand ASKET offers raw denim crafted from 13oz Japanese heritage fabric—at a price point that is one-third lower than comparable options on the market. They start off stiff, but with wear, they soften and fade to mold perfectly to your physique—eventually becoming a pair of jeans that belongs uniquely to you.
Arket
The epitome of Scandinavian minimalism. Their slim-fit stretch cotton denim offers incredible value for money, featuring washes specifically curated for a gender-neutral wardrobe. Their straight-leg styles—crafted from a blend of organic and recycled cotton—are also well worth adding to your collection.
M&S
Don’t laugh. If David Gandy wears it, who are you to turn your nose up at it? What matters here is the timeless, logo-free quality. Their “Selvedge” series—crafted from Japanese denim by Kurabo Mills—looks incredibly sharp when paired with dark leather boots or Derby shoes.
Uniqlo
A paradise for the pragmatist. With a comprehensive range of cuts, washes, and styles, they can cater to even the most exacting demands. If the slim fit doesn’t work for you, try the regular fit and simply cuff the hems. Their Selvedge series is almost perpetually sold out; at under £40 for genuine selvedge denim, it’s a bargain that makes perfect sense no matter how you do the math.
Carhartt
Denim was originally designed for the working class, after all. Carhartt has been in the game for over a century, while their WIP sub-label has successfully transformed workwear staples into everyday streetwear. With a low-rise, tapered cut, they’re perfect for the weekend—just throw on a pair of rugged work boots and a chore jacket, and you’re good to go.
Levi’s
This brand needs no introduction. The 501 is the definitive answer, but don’t limit yourself to just that. Their extensive archive of washes and fits runs deep enough that you’re bound to unearth a pair that suits you perfectly. Affordable and built to last, Levi’s serves as both the ideal starting point and the ultimate destination for any denim journey.
Great jeans shouldn’t cost you an arm and a leg. All they require is a little bit of your time—to figure out exactly what you’re looking for—and then for you to wear them until they fall apart.
It really is that simple.
